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The question of where to eat always falls to the birthday girl (though the others are free to make suggestions), and it’s a responsibility the chooser takes seriously. Every one of us is passionate about restaurants.

We rarely pay repeat visits, and that’s not necessarily a dig against the spots we have tried. If you’re a food-obsessed person in the nirvana of New York City — where eateries open and close almost as often as the doors of an MTA subway car — it’s hard to keep up with the latest debuts. With the rising cost of dining out, the pressure to try a new place every time is acute. But despite the wealth of options, there is one spot that reigns supreme in our group: Il Mulino, the legendary Italian restaurant that has occupied the same storefront in Greenwich Village since 1981.

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