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Yes, this probably sounds like a wine nerd’s afternoon in paradise, which is precisely the point. Sinzer is throwing this in large part as a tribute to the wine-soaked afternoons he enjoyed earlier in his career, which includes managing the dining room at Danny Meyer’s Maialino, and serving as wine director at Momofuku Ko and Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare. In the heyday of the mid-2010s, wine professionals would gather at restaurants like Ko or The Modern to drink great bottles and schmooze.

It would be too simple to say the pandemic killed the vibe. But there is an increasing sentiment among New York wine types that these opportunities are fewer and farther between — that the trading of knowledge and sips of great bottles has become rare. The reasons are complex. Blame systemic shifts in the wine business. Blame inflation. Blame the anointing of the martini as the current It Drink.

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